Another few weeks of very little progress - too many social things going on this time of year.
Good news is the Push to talk is now working. It was such a simple fix - just plug in the earth wire! Doh! What is it they say "always look for the simplest solution".
On the Fuel Flow things are not quite as straight forward as my last post suggested. I contacted Dynon and they said they do not support the UL Power ECU fuel flow output and recommended the red cubes. However they then did say it is worth a try so we will see.
The Dynon already has a very good fuel computer in it which if calibrated should give very accurate fuel usage. The flow is based on engine revs.
Onto the flap drive.
Firstly though I had to make sure all the control surface gaps were correct. To do this Pete uses Nylon bushes on the pins. So that's what I'm doing. They are easy enough to cut down with a mini hacksaw to the required width.
I'm aiming for a 2mm gap on all surfaces.
We had a few nice days so I decided to wheel the Twister outside and get going on the flap drive again.
Good news is the flaps went straight on - sort of - the pins were only 1mm out vertically - so a little Dremel work on the flap tube hole saw this fixed and they went in easily. They were in perfect alignment horizontally.
When I was making the flaps I made the pins purposely too long. So then it was a simple case of reducing them down to the required length. If they are too short there is nothing you can do except start over with the flap which would not be good.
Next thing to do is wait for 48 hours of nice weather so I can bond in the flap drive plastic bearings - which has to be done outside for me as there is not space inside the garage to get both wings on.
Once those bearings are bonded the loose flap drive end needs to be riveted to the tube and then the drive arm is also riveted to the tube. I am not leaving this off until after painting - as the manual suggests - I think it would be a major pain to rivet this when the bottom fuselage is bonded on! I'm not worried about the paint in the wing root as this will not be visible when the wings are on.
As all the wiring is now done I decided to fill the engine with oil and give it a crank over to get the oil through the system.
Due to my oil cooler mod and the length of the hoses it means I have about 600ml more oil in the system than a standard set up (3.5 litres) which I think is only a good thing as these engines don't have nearly as much oil as a Lycoming. It will help with keeping the oil cool.
It took a bit of cranking then checking the level - which had gone down. Refilling to Max and then cranking again until I got a reading on the Dynon of oil pressure. So all the air has been purged from the system and it should be good to go for an engine start in 2 weeks time.
I'm still not happy with the throttle set up and am changing that so will report on that in my next post.
 |
| Nylon bushings cut down with mini hacksaw |
 |
| Gap of 2mm on Aileron |
 |
| Bush in place. |
 |
| Getting wing on for flap drive job |
 |
| Add caption |
 |
| Almost right - need to go up by 1mm or so on the tube to match the pins |
 |
| Pins are too long on purpose - cut down in stages to fit perfectly |
 |
| Fuse and flap do not line up here so a bit of an extension to the fuse is required. |
 |
| Okay on the Starboard side though. |
 |
| Flap/Aileron gap too tight here - now fixed with another bush |
No comments:
Post a Comment